Tom McMillan, Leader | EVEREST:Friendship Beyond Borders Expedition 2004

EVEREST: Friendship Beyond Borders Expedition

First Attempt, One Artificial Leg, Trained Enroute, Summit Success

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"On behalf of our entire team, we send Pem Dorjee and his wife Moni our heartiest congratulations and best wishes for a long and happy life climbing together.

By overcoming terrible conditions on Everest this year, their love, marriage, and climbing success have all dramatically symbolized the humanitarian goals of our Friendship Beyond Borders Expedition.

They have used the friendship of climbing and the spirit of the mountains to reach beyond physical, social, and cultural borders. They have worked together with mutual respect and support to overcome the huge challenges of climbing Everest this year, and they have achieved greatness.

We wish them many more summits together."

--Tom McMillan

In 1998, Tom led an American expedition to climb the South Face of Annapurna,
looming here in the background behind Tom. It was on that expedition that Tom
met Nawang, who was a trekking guide for the group. That was the start of their
"Friendship Beyond Borders".

Expedition Team Member

Tom McMillan, Expedition Leader

First Time Everest Summiteer

A native of North Carolina, Tom (47 yrs) has enjoyed rock climbing and mountaineering in the US and abroad for over 30 years. He has experience in all types of climbing: high altitude mountaineering in the Great Ranges, general alpinism, technical rock climbing, big wall climbing, ice climbing, mixed climbing, and ski mountaineering.

With friends around the world, he has enjoyed such climbs as the Cassin Ridge of Denali (Alaska), the North Face of the Matterhorn (Switzerland), Bonatti Pillar (France), Central Pillar of Freney (Italy to France), peaks in the Cordillera Blanca (Peru), Mustagh Ata (China), the Canadian Rockies, and big walls in Yosemite (El Capitan in-a-day, Tempest, Tribal Rite, etc.).

Tom works as a Database Developer for AMB Property Corporation in San Francisco. He lives with his wife, Linda (also a climber) in San Rafael, California, just north of San Francisco.

In preparation for climbing Mount Everest, Tom climbed Mustagh Ata in western China in July 2003 with two friends from Colorado. Chad McFadden took this photo of Tom on the upper part of the mountain, showing the dramatic backdrop of the high peaks of northern Pakistan in the distance.